Saturday, September 29, 2007

Rice Pudding in Beyoglu (Istanbul)

When I was lived in the western Black Sea town of Eregli in the province of Zonguldak, Turkey, I used to always enjoy freshly made chocolate pudding as well as sutlach (rice pudding) at the local pastry shop. This was between 1977-79, when I was still a kid.
Apparently, Michael Lukas of "National Geographic Traveler" found a similar affection for Turkish sweets as he ventured to the center of Old Istanbul in Beyoglu. While on Istikal Cadesi_the closest thing to a Turkish Bourbon Street, Lukas stopped in at Saray Muhallebicisi_ a place he describes as serving up rice pudding fit for a sultan. In fact, the name of the pastry shop translates into "Palace Puddingmaker."
Lukas particularly recommends the 'firin sutlach,' which is oven-baked rice pudding. The travel writer said the dessert is the best rice pudding one can taste. It is made up of a pilant crust protecting the milky sweet rice instead.
The pastry shop also serves 'ekmek kadayifi,' which is syrup-soaked bread topped with clotted cream.
Lukas also said that the more adventurous traveler can try 'kazandibi,' which is Turkish pudding that is made with shredded chicken.
I had my own adventures back in 1985 when we were traveling through the province of Denizli in southwest Turkey near the Pamukkale resort. The waiter brought us an interesting meat with lots of hairs. When I asked what this mystery meat was, the waiter responded 'keci.'
Keci happens to be the Turkish word for goat!
This makes my second goat reference on this blog in 24 hours (see last entry).

Of course, no one made better sutlach than my late grandmother Zekiye Gokbudak, who spent the last 60 years of her life on Buyukada (The Big Island), off the Marmara coast of Istanbul. But, every Turkish person says that........the way everyone in North Carolina claims their grandmother made the best pecan pie.

Useful Links:

http://nationalgeographic.com/traveler

For travel info on Turkey and all things Anatolian:

http://www.turkey.org

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